A Birdwatcher’s 5-Day Adventure Through Mbeya and Njombe
Day 1: Sept 12 - Nungunungu Expeditions Office in Mbeya town, Lake Ngosi, and Matebete
We began with some leisurely birdwatching around the office grounds, where we spotted Brimstone Canary, White-browed Robin-Chat, Collared Sunbird, Baglafecht Weaver, and heard a Livingstone Turaco calling from Loleza Mountain. We then drove into the city for a quick breakfast before navigating the busy Mbeya traffic to reach Uyole. From there, we started driving towards Lake Ngosi, where we observed Bronzy Sunbird and Singing Cisticola.
At the edge of the forest, we met Jesca, a Tanzania Forest Services (TFS) Tourism officer for Lake Ngosi. We spotted Chapin’s Apalis, Black-browed Mountain Greenbul, Forest Double-collared Sunbird, Bar-throated Apalis, and White-starred Robin. With no particularly exciting sightings, we hiked up to the Lake Ngosi viewpoint, briefly pausing to photograph the Forest Double-collared Sunbird, then returned to our starting point. We continued to Chimala and turned left towards Matebete, exploring the dry acacia woodlands of the Usangu Basin. Here, we observed Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill, Ashy Starlings, Von der Decken’s Hornbill, Western Double-collared Sunbird, Reichenow’s Woodpecker, Rattling Cisticola, and Green-winged Ptylia. Later, we met Siloma at Matebete Junction and drove with him to Kapunga Rice Farm, where we spent the night.
Ashy Starling (Lamprotornis unicolor), Tanzania endemic, Matebete. All photos by Joe Ndekia.
Day 2: Sept 13 – Kapunga Rice Fields and Kitulo National Park
We started early at 6:00 a.m. with Siloma as our local guide. Just outside the hotel, we spotted Red-fronted Barbet, Black-necked Weaver, Woolly-necked Stork, Banded Parisoma, and Brubru. Birding in the rice fields didn’t yield many notable sightings, aside from a few gulls and some migrant waders. After leaving the fields, we drove to Chimala, navigating the 56 corners to reach Matamba village, where we picked up Japhari, our guide for Kitulo National Park.
At the park entrance, we observed Yellow-crowned Canary, Churring Cisticola, and Buff-shouldered Widowbird. Heading further south, we encountered several Plateau Larks, a significant find due to recent taxonomic splits in lark species. We searched the park for Denham’s Bustard with no success, so we took a detour to a nearby dairy farm. Being Maasai, I felt a strong connection with the cattle. After this brief visit, we returned to the park, spotting Yellow-throated Longclaw and Pectoral-patch Cisticola. As we were about to leave, Japhari spotted something resembling a bustard, and to our delight, it was indeed a male Denham’s Bustard. We took numerous photos and videos before heading out, and spending the night at Matamba.
Plateau Lark (Corypha nigrescens), Kitulo National Park, Njombe.
Denham's Bustard (Neotis denhami), Kitulo National Park, Njombe.
Day 3: Sept 14 – Kyela and Itungi Port, Lake Nyasa (Malawi)
We drove directly to Kyela, arriving at TM Studios, home of our host Tupilike Mwakajumba, where we would stay for the next two nights. After lunch, we did a quick scan of the property, adding Holub’s Golden Weaver, Magpie, Red-backed and Bronze Mannikins, Little Spotted Woodpecker, and Paradise Flycatcher to our list. Later in the evening, we visited Itungi Port, where we observed Village Weaver, White-fronted Plover, and Purple Heron. We stopped for groceries on the way back to TM Studios and spent the night there.
White-fronted Plover (Anarhynchus marginatus), Itungi Port.
Day 4: Sept 15 – Matema Beach (Lake Nyasa)
We started early and drove to Matema Beach, where we observed Southern Brown-throated Weaver, Square-tailed Nightjar, Black-throated Wattle-eye, Blue-headed Coucal, Dwarf Bittern, Collared Palm-Thrush, and Yellow-bellied Greenbul. We visited Matema Beach Hotel so Joseph could retrieve a pillow he had left behind a few weeks earlier. There, we met friends of Joseph who invited us to join their clients on a hike to the waterfalls. We eagerly agreed, though the hike turned out to be quite challenging. Along the trail, the only bird sighting was a Mountain Wagtail. After swimming at the falls, we returned to the hotel, had a late lunch, and spent another night at TM Studios.
Winding Cisticola (Cisticola marginatus), Matema beach.
Day 5: Sept 16 – Rungwe Mountain Forest Reserve and Mbeya City
We had breakfast early, bid farewell to our host Mwakajumba, and headed straight to the Rungwe Mountain Forest Reserve office. After completing check-in procedures, we began hiking the main trail, hearing various birds in the morning light, including Olive-headed, Placid, and Little Greenbuls, White-starred Robins, Southern Citrils, and Southern Yellow White-eyes. About a kilometer in, I heard a Sharpes Akalat calling, and after some playback, it appeared, giving us excellent views. Additional sightings included Livingstone’s Turaco, Forest Batis, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, and White-tailed Crested Flycatcher. In the afternoon, we returned to Mbeya, said goodbye to Joseph, and caught a bus back to Arusha.
Bird species observed: 195
